Hermit Crab Care
Hermit Crab Care Resources
Hermit Crab Basic Necessities Care Guide
Hermit Crab Basic Necessities
MUST HAVES
By Janie Groeling
Heat and Humidity
- Heat Pads
- Reptile Basics
- Bean Farm
- Entire length of back wall should be covered
- Ex: My tank is 48 inches long, so I got the 47x11 heat pad (47 inches long)
- Can use packing tape to tape heat pad onto tank
- Place heat pad so it sits above the substrate line, so it heats the air, not the substrate
- Insulation (only for the reptile basics and bean farm heat pads!)
- Cut to size, then tape this on top of heat pads, so it acts as a tight blanket on heat pads.
- Will retain the heat in the tank, need this for your Bean Farm/ Reptile Basic heaters
- Digital Hygrometer
- Heat should be in low 80’s (nothing above 85)
- Humidity should always be between 80%-85%
- Keep in middle of tank, a few inches a
- bove ground
- Calibrate before adding into tank
- Learn how to calibrate here
- If you want a hygrometer that connects to your phone, this is a cool option: Inkbird Hygrometer
- Lid
- Plexi glass lid cut to your dimensions at your local hardware store
- Add a couple inches to your dimensions so it lays flat
- Glass lid made for your tank size from your local pet store/ amazon
- Use tinfoil as temporary lid until you can get plexi glass/glass lid
- Can cover any cracks you ever have with your lid using tinfoil!
Substrate
- Play sand
- Get this 50 pound bag of play sand at your local hardware store, for $10 or less!
- Might need multiple depending on size of tank
- Eco Earth
- Mix it in with the play sand, at around a 5:1 ratio of play sand to eco earth
- Completed substrate should be at least 6 inches deep
- Do the “poke test” after adding your dry sand and eco earth. If needed, then add ¼ cup of primed water, and try poke test again. Continue as needed
- When you poke your finger in your substrate, the hole will hold a light shape of the indent
- Don’t want your substrate to start off too moist, it will gain lots of moisture as time goes on
Food
- Need complete meals each night, with high variety, switch it up each night!:) (should consist of lots of protein!)
- Animal proteins
- Plant proteins
- Fats
- Calcium
- Fruit/Veggies/Harvestables
Stock up from these hermit crab small business shops for food and foraging: (one of the best things you can do for your hermies, diet is key!)
Hermit Hootopia (healthy oils)
The Happy Hermie (Austrailia Shop!)
The Hungry Hermit Store (Canada Shop!)
These staples need to be available in tank 24/7:
- Green Sand
- Worm Castings
- Leaf Litter
- 24/7 Mix (mix of worm castings, green sand, crushed oyster shells)
***I highly recommend getting The Healthy Start Bundle. It comes with leaf litter, seachem prime, instant ocean, 24/7 mix, coconut oil, and complete meals!
Check out the Diet Guide tab for more important information on proper diet.
Water
- Fresh Water
- Tap water + Seachem Prime
- 1 drop needed for any pool/ amount less than 1 gallon
- Salt Water
- Tap water + Seachem Prime + Instant Ocean
- ½ cup of instant ocean per gallon
- I keep a gallon jug of tap water mixed with a half cup of instant ocean, then refill pool as needed, and then go ahead and add 1 drop of seachem prime in pool
Use tap water due to its beneficial minerals, and then seachem prime to get rid of the harmful chemicals! Use instant ocean to make the salt water.
Your pools need to be deep enough so that your hermit crabs can submerge, but they NEED to be able to get in and out of pools easily, so they don’t drown.
Keep your pools on top of a tray, like these. This way you can clean out pools as needed, without ever disturbing molters if they dig near/under pools!
*No bubblers: clean out pools / replace water every few days
*Have bubblers: clean out pools /replace water once a week
Tank Accessories
- Hiding and Climbing
- Browse/ Shop here and more here (and a Norton’s Nest!)
- Important for enrichment and to make them feel safe. They get bored, give them a home where they can have fun too! Replicate a jungle!
- Food Dishes
- Earth Water Fire Studio (pottery dishes)
- TheLuckyCrabCo Flower Dish
- Ceramic Flower Dish
- ZooMed Dish
- Gravity Feeder (for green sand, worm castings, crushed oyster shells, 24/7 mix, etc)
- Water Pools
- 3D Printed Pools with built in bubblers (my recommendation)
- Pools with plastic mesh ladder
Shells
Never use painted shells for your hermit crabs, they are toxic. If you have a hermit crab already in a painted shell, have plenty of natural shells to offer so they can switch out of the painted shell. Remove the painted shell from the tank once they switch. Below are some helpful tips when it comes to your hermit crabs and their shells!
- Get an idea of what size shells your hermit crabs need using this Shell Size Template
- Create a “shell shop” area in your tank where they can pick and choose shell options as they wish
- Have a variety of sizes
- Make sure each hermit crab has around 5 shells to choose from within their size range
- They prefer turbo shells
- They will need more options as they grow :)
Before adding new shells in tank, boil them in primed, instant ocean water
Here are some shell shop vendors to buy from!:
Tank Options
For those of you needing an upgrade!
RULE OF THUMB: 10 gallons of space per crab, 15 gallons per large crab
- Example: 4 hermit crabs = 40 gallon tank minimum
Minimum size should be 20 gallons always, even for one hermit crab. (Hermit crabs are very social animals and should ideally have more than 1)
Even though pet stores usually know nothing about proper hermit crab care and don’t provide anything they actually need / that are good for them, they do come in handy with decent priced tanks!
*sometimes there are sales, and you can try FB market place, ebay, etc. for used tanks people are selling!*
Extras
- Bubblers for pools
- Help increase humidity
- Only need to clean out pools once a week
- Good for enrichment
- Keeps water fresher for longer
- Air pump
- Tubing, bubbler stones, check valves, connectors
- *if you have TheLuckyCrabCo 3D printed pools, they come with a built in bubbler system! So all you will need is the tubing and pump :)
- Aquarium light
- Put on 12 hour timer cycle
- Use the white light setting, not blue or red
- Regardless of this light, keep them somewhere they can get a natural light cycle, roughly 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark
- Shell Shop Tier
- Shower caddy that you can take apart to use as an upper level shell shop
- Wheel
- I recommend getting them one, great for enrichment. They walk miles a day in the wild, this helps them get their steps in and energy out! They have a lot of fun on these:)
- Wyze Camera for inside tank
- Sphagnum Moss
- Add inside huts and hides, they LOVE to snuggle it
- Egg Crate to make a climbing wall!
Feel free to DM me on Instagram for any questions/help. I also have other helpful links here . :) Def worth taking a look at!
Other links such as adoption info : here
Diet Guide
Diet Guide
by Land Hermit Crab Education Center
When most people think about hermit crabs, they envision small, hardy creatures shuffling around in decorative shells. Unfortunately, this image overshadows a serious issue in hermit crab care: the lack of proper nutrition. For decades, hermit crabs have been marketed as low-maintenance pets, often with little to no guidance on their complex dietary needs. This widespread misinformation has led to a hidden crisis that severely impacts the well-being of countless hermit crabs.
The Misconception of Commercial Diets
Walk into any pet store, and you will likely find commercial hermit crab food advertised as “complete” and “nutritious.” However, these products often fall far short of meeting the dietary requirements of hermit crabs. Many are packed with harmful preservatives, artificial dyes, and low-quality ingredients that don’t provide the variety of nutrients hermit crabs need. Worse still, some contain ethoxyquin or copper sulfate, which are toxic to crabs in the long run.
In the wild, hermit crabs forage for a wide range of food, including fruits, vegetables, proteins, calcium sources, and even leaves and bark. This natural diet is rich in vitamins, minerals, and essential nutrients. Expecting them to thrive on highly processed pellets is unrealistic and, frankly, dangerous.
The Importance of a Balanced Diet
Hermit crabs require a diverse diet that mimics what they would find in their natural environment. Without it, they suffer from nutritional deficiencies that can lead to weakened exoskeletons, poor molting, and even death. Key elements of a balanced diet include:
Proteins
Vital for growth and molting, crabs need high-quality protein sources such as seafood, eggs, and lean meats.
Calcium
Essential for strong exoskeletons, calcium can be found in cuttlebone, eggshells, and natural coral.
Fruits & Vegetables
These provide essential vitamins and minerals. Fresh, pesticide-free options are always best.
Leaf Litter and Moss
Often overlooked, but crabs enjoy munching on leaf litter and moss, which provide fiber and beneficial microorganisms.
What Happens Without Proper Nutrition?
When deprived of a varied and nutritious diet, hermit crabs can suffer from a range of health issues, many of which are preventable. Some common consequences include:
Failed Molts
Molting is a delicate process, and without the right nutrients, hermit crabs may have incomplete or fatal molts.
Weak Exoskeletons
Calcium deficiencies can cause soft, fragile exoskeletons, making crabs more susceptible to injury.
Lethargy and Behavioral Issues
Hermit crabs that lack energy-rich foods may become sluggish and show little interest in foraging or climbing, which are natural behaviors.
How to Improve Hermit Crab Nutrition
Caring for hermit crabs means providing them with a wide range of safe, natural foods that meet their nutritional needs. Here are some tips to ensure your hermit crabs get the nutrients they need to thrive:
Offer Variety
Rotate different food items like seafood, fresh vegetables, fruits, and calcium sources regularly.
Choose Natural Options
Avoid commercial foods with preservatives or artificial ingredients. Instead, opt for fresh or dried foods free from chemicals.
- Incorporate Foraging: Encourage natural foraging behaviors by providing safe enrichment items like leaf litter, moss, and bark.
Supplements
Occasionally offer calcium-rich supplements like cuttlebone, egg shells or natural coral to ensure your crabs are getting enough calcium.
The Role of Awareness in Hermit Crab Care
One of the greatest barriers to better hermit crab nutrition is awareness. Many new owners simply aren’t aware of the unique needs of these animals, and the available care guides don’t emphasize the importance of diet. By spreading accurate information, we can improve the health and longevity of hermit crabs in captivity and ensure that they live fulfilling, natural lives.
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Proteins and lipids
All meats, meat fats, domestic, fish, seafood (silversides, goldfish, clams, oysters, crab, shrimp, tuna, salmon (skin and fat) bone marrow), nut meats, avocado (meat only), bamboo stalks (not lucky bamboo), egg yolks, pumpkin seeds.
Oils (preferably cold pressed): coconut, olive, palm, sunflower, pumpkin seed
Alfalfa hay, broccoli, egg whites, flax seed, bloodworm, plankton, shrimp, kale, lentils, millet, rice, snap peas, soy beans, spinach, wheat germ, quinoa, spirulina.
Benefit: growth, molting, fueling metabolic function, discourages cannibalism
Carotenoids, Zeaxanthin, Cellulose
Tannin rich leaves, bark, cambium (inner skins) of oak, maple, mangrove root, some perennial leaves (Burning Bush). Fresh fruits and vegetables that are orange/yellow/red/dark green: Squash, sweet potato, carrots, corn, mango, blueberries, many flower petals (dry), spinach, fall foliage, bean sprouts, seaweed (especially spirulina), moss, acorn meat, avocado meat (only), bell peppers (orange, yellow, red), brussel sprouts, cilantro, collards, corn, corn meal, dandelion greens, egg yolk, grape leaves, romaine, papaya, parsley, peas, raspberry
(leaves too), snap beans, pumpkin, pineapple, persimmon, peaches, passion fruit, microalgae, mango, apricot, cantaloupe, chard, guava, shellfish, salmon, tomato. Astaxanthin is found in microalgae, yeast, salmon, trout, krill, shrimp, crayfish, crustaceans, and the feathers of some birds. Benefit: immune system, nervous system, color enhancement
Carbohydrates
- Coconut, walnut, whole fish (like a dead goldfish), fish skin, animal fat, olive oil, some grass seeds, seeds, peanut
- butter. Fresh flower petals: roses, sunflower, crab apple blossom
Calcium
Freeze dried brine shrimp, meal worms, blood worms, krill (fresh, frozen, freeze dried), sand dollars, starfish, sea urchin, powdered oyster shells, cuttle bone, figs, microalgae, nuts, okra, quinoa, broccoli heads, amaranth, beans, molasses, egg shells, milk, bone meal, seaweeds.
Benefit: healthy exo and other functions Chitin
Shrimp, crab, lobster, crawfish (shellfish should be boiled first), insect exoskeletons (such as cicadas), mushrooms. Greensand, worm castings.
Hermit crabs missing one or both claws should be fed soft (liquid) foods that can be picked up by the maxillipeds. Honey or molasses mixed with other foods is a good food for highly stressed crabs or clawless crabs but only in a tiny drop. Generally speaking most foods are equally valuable and getting the hermit crab to eat is more important than what it eats to begin with. Offering favorite foods to stimulate the appetite and fuel the metabolic function is your starting point, from there begin to incorporate foods from all of the above groups so that the crab has access to what its body needs to recover. Hermit crabs that are inactive and/or appear ‘dry could be lacking something.
Note:
Some dry foods (egg shells, grains, seeds, flowers, seaweed) can be sprinkled into the crabitat to encourage foraging behavior.
Greensand and worm castings should be available at all times.
Here’s a detailed safe food list for hermit crabs, broken down by category, with a focus on value and variety. These foods help support their health and well-being.
Animal Proteins
Hermit crabs need protein to grow and maintain their exoskeletons.
- Dried/Cooked shrimp – High in protein and calcium.
- Mealworms (dried or dead,) – Rich in protein and fats.
- Boiled eggs (crushed shell included)– Excellent calcium source.
- Cuttlefish bone– Great for calcium.
Vegetables
Fresh vegetables provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
- Carrots – High in beta-carotene, which enhances shell color.
- Sweet potato - Packed with fiber, beta-carotene, and energy.
- Kale - Rich in vitamins A, C, K, and calcium. (Needs to be cooked)
- Zucchini - Hydrating and full of essential vitamins.
- Spinach– Contains lutein and iron. (Needs to be cooked)
Seeds & Grains
These are great for energy and nutritional balance.
- Chia seeds – High in omega-3 fatty acids and fiber.
- Quinoa – A complete protein source, rich in amino acids.
- Flaxseed – Loaded with omega-3 and antioxidants.
- Millet – Nutrient-dense, with vitamins B and iron.
Nuts
A good source of fats, protein, and antioxidants.
- Walnuts - High in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants.
- Almonds – Rich in protein, fiber, and healthy fats.
- Pecans - Provide antioxidants and a good fat source.
- Hazelnuts - Packed with vitamins and minerals.
Fruits
Hermit crabs love fruits, which provide hydration, vitamins, and natural sugars.
- Blueberries - High in antioxidants and anthocyanins.
- Apples (remove seeds) – A source of fiber and hydration.
- Papaya - Contains digestive enzymes and vitamins.
Mango - Rich in vitamins A, C, and antioxidants.
**Foraged Greens & Plants**
Hermit crabs benefit from foraging on natural plants.
Dandelion greens
A good source of calcium and vitamins. Plantain leaves
High in fiber and healing properties. Hibiscus flowers
Vitamin C and antioxidants.
Anthocyanin-Rich Foods
These provide powerful antioxidants that boost health and enhance color.
Purple cabbage
Anthocyanins and vitamin C.
Blackberries
Rich in antioxidants and nutrients. Chokeberries
Another excellent source of anthocyanins. Red grapes
Provide hydration and antioxidants. Supplements & Boosters
Provide these at all times to boost their nutritional intake.
Worm castings
A natural source of nutrients and minerals.
Green sand
Full of minerals.
Bee pollen
Vitamins, protein, and enzymes.
Cuttlefish bone & Egg shells
A constant source of calcium for
exoskeleton health.
Beta-Carotene-Rich Foods
These enhance the vibrant colors of your crabs' exoskeletons.
Pumpkin
Rich in beta-carotene and fiber.
Red bell peppers
High in vitamin C and beta-carotene. Butternut squash
Contains beta-carotene, fiber, and vitamins. Carrots
Loaded with beta-carotene for healthy coloring.
Fat Sources
Essential fats help hermit crabs maintain energy and healthy growth.
- Coconut oil
A good fat source for energy and shell care. Sunflower seeds
High in fats and nutrients.
Hemp seeds
Contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Salmon oil
Rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants. Lutein & Zeaxanthin-Rich Foods
These protect eyesight and enhance overall health.
Marigold petals
High in lutein and antioxidants.
- Peas – Rich in lutein and protein. Collard greens
Packed with lutein, calcium, and fiber. (Need to be cooked)
Corn kernels
Contains zeaxanthin and offers fiber. –
General Feeding Tips
- Always wash fruits, vegetables, and foraged items thoroughly to remove pesticides and chemicals.
- Avoid foods that contain salt,
preservatives, or artificial ingredients.
- Offer a wide variety to ensure a balanced diet and prevent boredom.
- Replace uneaten food regularly to prevent spoilage and mold.
This detailed list covers a broad spectrum of safe, nutritious foods to help hermit crabs thrive!
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By being mindful of the food we offer our hermit crabs, we can drastically improve their health, happiness, and longevity. With proper care, including a nutrient-rich diet, hermit crabs can thrive and become fascinating, long-term companions.
Safe Foods List
Safe Food List
By Land Hermit Crab Education Center
Safe List
Alfalfa
Almonds, crushed
Aloe Vera (Asphodelaceaes) Offer in moderation
Amaranth (calcium)
Anchovy oil
Apple and natural, unsweetened apple sauce Apricot (fruit only)
Artichoke (all)
Asparagus
Aspen (wood,leaves,bark)
Avocado (flesh only)
Baby foods (no added salt/sugar)
Banana
Barley (calcium)
Beans (all-cooked)
Beets
Bell peppers (red, yellow, orange, green or purple)
Bee pollen
Berries (all varieties safe for human consumption)
Bilberries/Huckleberries
Blackberry fruit and leaves
Bladderwrack
Blueberries
Bok choy
Bone Meal (no additives, preservatives) Bones - cooked or raw
Broccoli and leaves -cooked
Brown rice
Buckwheat
Cantaloupe
Carnation flowers
Carrots (carotenoids)
Carrot tops Cashews
Cat Tails
Cauliflower and leaves
Celery leaves
Chamomile flowers
Chard
Cherimoya/Custard Appleripe ( fruit only) Cherry
Chestnuts (The kind for people. USA Horse Chestnuts are toxic but in the UK they call the regular Chestnuts Horse Chestnuts)
Chia seeds and sprouts
Chickpeas
Cholla wood
Clams
Clover blossoms and leaves
Coconut and coconut oil
Cod liver oil
Collards (calcium)
Cork bark
Corn (on the cob, too)
Cornflower
Cornmeal
Cranberries
Crustaceans (all shellfish must be cooked)
Cucumber
Currants
Cuttlefish bone, powdered
Dandelion flowers, leaves and roots Dates
Dragon Fruit
Eggs (cooked or raw and shells)
Elm
Escargot
Extra-virgin olive oil
Figs
Fish (any type safe for human consumption)
Fish Oil
Flax seeds and oil
Fowl (chicken, turkey, duck, pheasant, game birds)
Freekah
Frozen fish food (algae, krill and brine shrimp)
Fruit (common fruits consumed by humans are safe)
Garbanzos (calcium)
Goji Berries
Grape Leaf
Grapes
Grapevine (vines and root)
Green and red leaf lettuce or iceberg; dark green)
Green Beans
Greensand
Hempseed
Hibiscus flowers
Hickory (all parts)
Hikari products: brine shrimp, krill, crab cuisine, sea plankton (no preservatives, ethoxyquin, copper sulfate)
Hollyhock flowers
Honeydew Melon
Honeysuckle (flowers only, no leaves or stems)
Huckleberries/Bilberries
Irish Moss
Impatiens flowers
Jasmine flowers
Kale
Kelp (calcium)
Kiwi
Lilac (flowers, leaves and wood) Lobster with crushed exoskeleton Mango
Marigold flowers (calendula)
MarionBerries
May Apple (Ripe fruit ONLY)
Meat (poultry, beef, pork, lamb etc) Melons (all)
Mice
Millet
Mollusks
Mulberry (fruit, leaves, wood)
Mushrooms
Mussels
Nasturtium flowers
Nettle (wilted)
Nopals (prickly pear)
Nuts (all)
Oak Leaves and bark
Oats
Okra
Olive and olive oil (extra virgin)
Oranges
Oysters (zinc) and shells (whole or crushed w/no sharp edges)
Pansy flowers and leaves
Papaya
Parsley
Parsnip
Passionfruit
Peas
Peaches
Peanut butter (avoid sugar, corn syrup and hydrogenated oils)
Pears
Pecans
Pecan bark
Persimmon
Petunias
Pine nuts
Pineapple
Plain calcium carbonate powder
Plums
Pomegranate
Popcorn (unseasoned, unflavored, unbuttered)
Poplar (wood,leaves,bark)
Potato (no green parts, including eyes) Prickly Pear (shellfish must be cooked)
Pumpkin (seed, meat and guts)
Quinoa (New World grain – calcium)
Raisins (no sulphur dioxide)
Raspberry
Red raspberry leaves
Rice (puffed or well washed, cooked to remove arsenic)
Rooibus
Rose petals
Rose hips
Royal Jelly
Salmon
Sand dollars
Sardines in water
Scallops
Sea biscuits
Sea fan (red or black)
Sea grasses
Sea salt
Sea sponges
Sea urchins
Sesame seeds
Shellfish (must be cooked)
Shrimp and exoskeletons
Spinach (cooked)
Spirulina
Sprouts (flax, wheat, bean, alfalfa) Squash and blossoms
Strawberry and tops
Sunflower Seeds, flowers and leaves Swamp cypress wood (false cypress, taxodium)
Sweet potato
Tahini
Tangerine
Timothy Hay
Tomato
Turmeric
Tuna
Turnip greens
Violet flowers
Venison
Walnuts-meat only
Watercress
Watermelon
Wheat grass
Wheat
Wheat germ
Whitefish
Whole Wheat Couscous
Worm Castings
Zucchini
*With flowers and plants pesticide free is a must.
Proteins and lipids
All meats, meat fats, domestic, fish, seafood (silversides, goldfish, clams, oysters, crab, shrimp, tuna, salmon (skin and fat) bone marrow), nut meats, avocado (meat only), bamboo stalks (not lucky bamboo), egg yolks, pumpkin seeds.
Oils (preferably cold pressed): coconut, olive, palm, sunflower, pumpkin seed
Alfalfa hay, broccoli, egg whites, flax seed, bloodworm, plankton, shrimp, kale, lentils, millet, rice, snap peas, soy beans, spinach, wheat germ, quinoa, spirulina.
Benefit: growth, molting, fueling metabolic function, discourages cannibalism
Carotenoids, Zeaxanthin, Cellulose
Tannin rich leaves, bark, cambium (inner skins) of oak, maple, mangrove root, some perennial leaves (Burning Bush). Fresh fruits and vegetables that are orange/yellow/red/dark green: Squash, sweet potato, carrots, corn, mango, blueberries, many flower petals (dry), spinach, fall foliage, bean sprouts, seaweed (especially spirulina), moss, acorn meat, avocado meat (only), bell peppers (orange, yellow, red), brussel sprouts, cilantro, collards, corn, corn meal, dandelion greens, egg yolk, grape leaves, romaine, papaya, parsley, peas, raspberry
(leaves too), snap beans, pumpkin, pineapple, persimmon, peaches, passion fruit, microalgae, mango, apricot, cantaloupe, chard, guava, shellfish, salmon, tomato. Astaxanthin is found in microalgae, yeast, salmon, trout, krill, shrimp, crayfish, crustaceans, and the feathers of some birds. Benefit: immune system, nervous system, color enhancement
Carbohydrates
- Coconut, walnut, whole fish (like a dead goldfish), fish skin, animal fat, olive oil, some grass seeds, seeds, peanut
- butter. Fresh flower petals: roses, sunflower, crab apple blossom
Calcium
Freeze dried brine shrimp, meal worms, blood worms, krill (fresh, frozen, freeze dried), sand dollars, starfish, sea urchin, powdered oyster shells, cuttle bone, figs, microalgae, nuts, okra, quinoa, broccoli heads, amaranth, beans, molasses, egg shells, milk, bone meal, seaweeds.
Benefit: healthy exo and other functions Chitin
Shrimp, crab, lobster, crawfish (shellfish should be boiled first), insect exoskeletons (such as cicadas), mushrooms. Greensand, worm castings.
Hermit crabs missing one or both claws should be fed soft (liquid) foods that can be picked up by the maxillipeds. Honey or molasses mixed with other foods is a good food for highly stressed crabs or clawless crabs but only in a tiny drop. Generally speaking most foods are equally valuable and getting the hermit crab to eat is more important than what it eats to begin with. Offering favorite foods to stimulate the appetite and fuel the metabolic function is your starting point, from there begin to incorporate foods from all of the above groups so that the crab has access to what its body needs to recover. Hermit crabs that are inactive and/or appear ‘dry could be lacking something.
Note:
Some dry foods (egg shells, grains, seeds, flowers, seaweed) can be sprinkled into the crabitat to encourage foraging behavior.
Greensand and worm castings should be available at all times.
Here’s a detailed safe food list for hermit crabs, broken down by category, with a focus on value and variety. These foods help support their health and well-being.
Animal Proteins
Hermit crabs need protein to grow and maintain their exoskeletons.
- Dried/Cooked shrimp – High in protein and calcium.
- Mealworms (dried or dead,) – Rich in protein and fats.
- Boiled eggs (crushed shell included)– Excellent calcium source.
- Cuttlefish bone– Great for calcium.
Vegetables
Fresh vegetables provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
- Carrots – High in beta-carotene, which enhances shell color.
- Sweet potato - Packed with fiber, beta-carotene, and energy.
- Kale - Rich in vitamins A, C, K, and calcium. (Needs to be cooked)
- Zucchini - Hydrating and full of essential vitamins.
- Spinach– Contains lutein and iron. (Needs to be cooked)
Seeds & Grains
These are great for energy and nutritional balance.
- Chia seeds – High in omega-3 fatty acids and fiber.
- Quinoa – A complete protein source, rich in amino acids.
- Flaxseed – Loaded with omega-3 and antioxidants.
- Millet – Nutrient-dense, with vitamins B and iron.
Nuts
A good source of fats, protein, and antioxidants.
- Walnuts - High in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants.
- Almonds – Rich in protein, fiber, and healthy fats.
- Pecans - Provide antioxidants and a good fat source.
- Hazelnuts - Packed with vitamins and minerals.
Fruits
Hermit crabs love fruits, which provide hydration, vitamins, and natural sugars.
- Blueberries - High in antioxidants and anthocyanins.
- Apples (remove seeds) – A source of fiber and hydration.
- Papaya - Contains digestive enzymes and vitamins.
Mango - Rich in vitamins A, C, and antioxidants.
**Foraged Greens & Plants**
Hermit crabs benefit from foraging on natural plants.
Dandelion greens
A good source of calcium and vitamins. Plantain leaves
High in fiber and healing properties. Hibiscus flowers
Vitamin C and antioxidants.
Anthocyanin-Rich Foods
These provide powerful antioxidants that boost health and enhance color.
Purple cabbage
Anthocyanins and vitamin C.
Blackberries
Rich in antioxidants and nutrients. Chokeberries
Another excellent source of anthocyanins. Red grapes
Provide hydration and antioxidants. Supplements & Boosters
Provide these at all times to boost their nutritional intake.
Worm castings
A natural source of nutrients and minerals.
Green sand
Full of minerals.
Bee pollen
Vitamins, protein, and enzymes.
Cuttlefish bone & Egg shells
A constant source of calcium for
exoskeleton health.
Beta-Carotene-Rich Foods
These enhance the vibrant colors of your crabs' exoskeletons.
Pumpkin
Rich in beta-carotene and fiber.
Red bell peppers
High in vitamin C and beta-carotene. Butternut squash
Contains beta-carotene, fiber, and vitamins. Carrots
Loaded with beta-carotene for healthy coloring.
Fat Sources
Essential fats help hermit crabs maintain energy and healthy growth.
- Coconut oil
A good fat source for energy and shell care. Sunflower seeds
High in fats and nutrients.
Hemp seeds
Contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Salmon oil
Rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants. Lutein & Zeaxanthin-Rich Foods
These protect eyesight and enhance overall health.
Marigold petals
High in lutein and antioxidants.
- Peas – Rich in lutein and protein. Collard greens
Packed with lutein, calcium, and fiber. (Need to be cooked)
Corn kernels
Contains zeaxanthin and offers fiber. –
General Feeding Tips
- Always wash fruits, vegetables, and foraged items thoroughly to remove pesticides and chemicals.
- Avoid foods that contain salt,
preservatives, or artificial ingredients.
- Offer a wide variety to ensure a balanced diet and prevent boredom.
- Replace uneaten food regularly to prevent spoilage and mold.
This detailed list covers a broad spectrum of safe, nutritious foods to help hermit crabs thrive!
Water Care
Water Care
Pools
Hermit crabs require a salt water pool AND fresh water pool. Pools should be big enough for your largest hermit crab to fully submerge. There must be easy access for them to get in and out of the pools so they don't drown. I always recommend The Lucky Crab Co pools. They are 3D printed and made for hermit crabs and come in a variety of sizes to choose from. They have little stair cases for an easy entry and exit, and have a built in bubbler system!
Fresh Water
Use tap water and add Seachem Prime. Tap water has beneficial minerals, and the Seachem Prime removes the harmful chemicals in the tap water. Seachem Prime is a MUST to make the water safe for your hermit crabs. Seachem Prime should be used in both fresh and saltwater pools.
*One drop of Prime treats a 1/2 gallon of water.
Salt Water
Get an empty gallon jug of water and fill with tap water. Add 1 cup of Instant Ocean. Shake well and use as needed to refill saltwater pool. Add your Seachem Prime drops in saltwater pool as well.
*1 cup of Instant Ocean per gallon of water.
Bubblers
Adding a bubbler system to your pools is a great way to keep your hermit crabs water fresh for longer, add enrichment, and can help aid in higher humidity levels.
Bubbler Supplies (air pump, aquarium tubing, check valve, "T" divider, bubbler stones)
*The Lucky Crab Co pools come with a built in bubbler system, so you would only need the tubing, air pump, and T divider!
Pool Maintenance
If you have bubblers, clean out your pools once a week. If you do not have bubblers, clean out every other day. Dump and replace water, can use toothbrush to get in grooves and help scrub off any grime. Use paper towel to dry and wipe off grime as well.
Hermit Crab Water Care Video
Heat and Humidity
Heat and Humidity
Proper Heat and Humidity Video
Hermit crabs come from tropical climates. The species most commonly sold as pets, "purple pinchers", come from the Caribbean. It is crucial to their survival to replicate the same conditions as the tropical climates from where they came. Without proper heat and humidity, they will not survive.
Heat
Hermit crabs are cold blooded animals and do not produce body heat. Temperatures in your hermit crabs tank should ideally always be between 75- 80 degrees F. Exotic species of hermit crab, (different than purple pinchers), may require warmer temperatures around 84-85 degrees F.
You will need a UTH (under the tank heat pad). DO NOT place under the tank, despite it's name. Heat pads for hermit crabs should only be placed on outside walls of tank. The entire back length of your tanks exterior back wall should be covered by a heat pad. Measure your back wall and buy heat pad accordingly. Here are some good spots to order UTH's from:
You will also need insulation for your UTH's so the tank will retain the heat. Cut the insulation to size, and can attach the heat pads to tank and insulation on top via packing tape.
Humidity
Hermit Crabs have modified gills and need proper humidity levels to survive. Without proper humidity, they can suffocate and die. Humidity in your tank should ideally always be between 75%-85%. Exotic species, (different than purple pinchers), may require higher levels such as 84%-85%.
Ways to create and maintain humidity:
- Heat pads
- Completely sealed glass / plexi glass lid
- Sand castle consistency substrate (see "Substrate" tab)
- Bubblers in pools
- Add sphagnum moss dampened with primed water near heat pads
Proper Lids
In order to keep proper heat and humidity within your hermit crabs tank, it is important to have a completely sealed glass / plexi glass lid. Hermit crabs do not require oxygen the same way humans do, so don't worry about leaving any holes or cracks in the lid for them. They get plenty of oxygen flow whenever you open up tank to feed them!
Check your local pet stores or online for glass lids that are made for the size and type of tank you have. Or, you can get a plexi glass lid cut to size at your local hardware store. Make sure to add a couple of inches to your dimensions when you go to get lid cut, this way it can lay nicely on top of tank.
If you are unable to acquire a glass or plexi glass lid at the time, tin foil can be used as a temporary lid.
Hygrometers
It is important to be able to properly track your hermit crabs tank conditions. A hygrometer will tell you the heat and humidity inside of tank. Use a digital hygrometer instead of an analog one, they are much more accurate.
Make sure to calibrate your hygrometers before using:
Hygrometers should be placed a few inches above substrate, and in the center of your tank. You can use zip ties if needed.
Thermostat
The thermostat will help regulate the heat pads. The thermostat comes with a probe. Insert probe against the inside back wall of tank, in the middle of your tank. Probe should be a few inches (around 4 inches) above substrate. Set the thermostat to a desired temperature, ideally around 80 degrees F. Plug heat pad into thermostat, and plug thermostat into outlet. Now, when it gets too hot in tank and reaches temperature above the one you set on thermostat, the thermostat will automatically turn off heat pad. When temperatures reach under the set temperature, the thermostat will turn heat pad back on. Here is helpful video that I used when setting up my thermostat: setting up thermostat.
Proper Substrate
Substrate
Proper substrate in your hermit crabs tank is crucial to allow successful molts to happen and to replicate their native environment.
Substrate in your hermit crab tanks should consist of a mix of 5:1 ratio of children's play sand to Eco Earth (coconut fiber), so the majority of your substrate should consist play sand. You can find 50 pound bags of play sand at your local hardware store for cheap. DO NOT use calcium sand.
Eco Earth comes in brick form or shredded in a bag. If you get the bricks, you will have to break the bricks up in primed water, and let it completely dry. Getting it in the bag will save you time, that step had already been done for you.
Substrate should be minimum 6 inches deep, but aim for higher.
Substrate should be sand castle consistency. So if you poke your finger in the substrate, the hole will hold its shape. This is important for molting, so when your hermit crab digs underground and makes tunnels, the tunnels will hold shape and not collapse around them and suffocate them.
If your substrate isn't passing the "poke test", you can add a cup or two of primed water and mix it all in with the rest of substrate. Goal is to have sand castle consistency substrate- not too wet at all, but moist enough so tunnels hold shape! Start off with dry substrate and add the water if needed.
Helpful visual on creating substrate
No need to ever re-do your substrate unless:
- Flooding in tank
- Bug problem
- Fungal bloom outbreak
- Upgrading to a new tank
Helpful Substrate Video
Molting
Molting
Molting is a fragile and vulnerable process a hermit crab will go through to grow. Just as a snake sheds it's skin, a hermit crab sheds it's exoskeleton. Hermit crabs will dig under ground to molt, they do not leave their shells during this process. It is important to have proper sand castle consistency substrate for molting.
Molting can take anywhere from a couple of weeks to many months. On average a larger hermit crab will molt less frequently and for longer, while smaller hermit crabs will molt more frequently for a shorter time.
Hermit crabs will eat the exoskeleton they shedded while underground still. It is a great source of calcium for them that will help harden their new exoskeleton. Hermit crabs will not come up to eat or drink while molting. They have a "molt sac" which stores water for them which they will utilize while underground molting. You might notice that your hermit crabs have a big appetite before they go under to molt as they are prepping for "molt camp"! :)
NEVER go looking or digging around for your hermit crabs. They are nocturnal anyways, so they will most likely be out at night opposed to daytime. Do not be worried if you can't seem to find them, when in doubt- assume they are underground molting! Disturbing a molting hermit crab could gravely injure them or even kill them. Be careful not to disturb the substrate, as it could cause their tunnels to collapse and suffocate them
Hermit crabs can resort to cannibalism if their dietary needs are not being met. There are cases a hermit crab will dig up and eat a molting hermit crab out of survival. Make sure plenty of animal protein is offered in your hermit crabs diet so there is never a need for your hermit crabs to have to resort to that for survival / compete for resources.
Molting Video
Shells
Shells
Hermit crabs need shells to survive. Shells provide protection from predators and shelter from the hot sun. Hermit crabs also store water inside their shells. It is important your hermit crabs have properly fitting shells, with a high variety to choose from. As hermit crabs grow, they will need bigger shells to change into.
Hermit crabs each will have a personal preference with what kind of shells they like. Purple Pinchers are known to like turbo shells, and exotics seem to prefer "D" shape openings. It is a good idea to provide plenty of different options in size and shape so each hermit crab has a wide variety selection to choose from.
For every hermit crab, have around 5 suitable shell options offered. So if you have 5 hermit crabs, have around 25 shells offered. By having a wide variety for them to choose from, they won't feel need to compete for resources and "shell- jack" each other.
Having trouble determining which size shells to get? Check out Hermit Harbor's shell sizing template.
Places to get shells from:
What to do if your hermit crab leaves it's shell
Bugs in Your Tank?
Bugs in Your Tank?
Bugs in your hermit crab tank is sometimes inevitable. It is not always a bad thing, some are a natural clean up crew and can actually benefit your tank (without them getting out of hand in numbers). Some owners will intentionally incorporate a isopods and/ or springtails to work as a clean up crew. However, sometimes there can be harmful bugs that infiltrate your tank, such as ants.
Here are some helpful resources tailored for different bug situations!
Guide to Bugs in Your Hermit Crab Tank
Adoption / Rehoming Resources
Adoption / Rehoming
It is important to advocate for adopting, not shopping. When we buy a hermit crab from a pet store or beach shop, we are funding the cruel pet trade and perpetuating it, since those hermit crabs bought will just be replaced. Adopting is a great way to rescue hermit crabs in need of homes, without putting money into the pockets of the industry. The goal is to keep wild crabs wild- and there is no supply if no demand!
Make sure to join the Facebook groups. Follow their rules and post accordingly about your situation! If you are rehoming, make sure you are giving them to a good home where they will receive proper care.
Rehoming and Adoption Applications:
PPDS Method
PPDS Method for New Rescues
PPDS stands for "post purchase death syndrome". When a hermit crab comes from bad conditions, such as a beach shop, then their health and strength is really low. Hermit crabs coming from bad conditions are most likely desperate for a molt, however, if they are placed right into a main tank with the deep substrate and dig under to molt, they might not have the strength or energy to have a successful molt and could die.
The PPDS method works as a small "rehab" tank, with very shallow substrate (less than 1 inch), so the weak hermit crab cannot dig under to molt and risk dying. Diet is key in a PPDS tank so the hermit crab can get all the nutrients it has been lacking. Over a couple weeks or so, the hermit crab will be healthy enough to go into the main tank, where it can have a successful molt!
If you adopt a hermit crab from a proper home where it came from good conditions and diet, then no need to do the PPDS method. PPDS method is for weak hermit crabs coming from bad / unhealthy conditions.
Below is helpful link that goes more in depth about the PPDS method and how to execute it:)
Tank Topper
Building a Tank Topper
If you are ready to upgrade your tank game, you can add more climbing/ vertical space to your hermit crabs tank by adding a topper. Ideally, a tank topper will be an Exo Terra tank, flipped upside down, with front opening doors for easy access. Below are helpful visuals about the process!
Tank Set Up
Tank Set Up
It is important to replicate a tropical, Caribbean environment for your hermit crabs from where they are native. Hermit crabs are natural animals of prey so having a lot of hiding spots and cover is important to make them feel safe and protected. They are also nocturnal animals, so they like to snuggle and sleep in hides and moss/ foraging pits during the day. Hermit crabs love to climb and explore, so have ltos of fun climbing pieces and enrichment for them. Here are things you will want to have to optimize your hermit crabs tank:
- climbing accessories (Norton's Nest hammock!:) )
- hiding accessories
- salt water pool
- fresh water pool
- "Shell shop"
- leaf litter / foraging items
- green sand
- worm castings
- A wheel
- dinner dish
- fake plants and greenery
Some tank tours of mine to give you inspo!:
Donate Shells to Wild Hermit Crabs!
Many shells in the wild are taken by unknowing tourists as a souviener, leaving the wild hermit crabs with limited options and resorting to trash as a make-shift shell. Without proper shells and protection, hermit crabs can unfortuanely die. Consider donating any extra shells you have to the wild hermit crabs with the addresses below :)
Make The Switch For Nature (Okinawa, Japan)
Shawn Miller
Psc 567 Box 6636
FPO AP 96384
USA